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03. Wales

Okay, cariad (that’s ‘darling’ or ‘love’ in Welsh!) – let’s shift our focus slightly westwards across the border and have a proper chat about visiting Wales. If England is a grand historical novel with bustling metropolises and gentle, rolling hills, then Wales is perhaps a passionate, epic poem sung on a mountaintop, filled with dramatic landscapes, ancient legends, and a fierce, proud spirit. It’s a country that often flies a little under the radar compared to its larger neighbour, but let me tell you, it is absolutely brimming with incredible experiences waiting to be discovered.

So, have you ever pictured towering castles perched on dramatic cliffs? Imagined hiking through wild, untamed mountains with views that steal your breath? Or perhaps wondered about a country where an ancient language is still spoken daily? If so, Wales might just be calling your name.

Croeso i Gymru: Introducing the Land of the Dragon

Welcome to Wales – or, as the Welsh themselves say, Croeso i Gymru. It’s a land steeped in myth and legend, where history isn’t just in museums but feels alive in the landscape itself. Situated on the western side of Great Britain, sharing a long border with England, Wales is a distinct nation with its own language, culture, and identity that has survived centuries of challenges.   

Tourism isn’t new to Wales. For generations, people from across the UK and further afield have been drawn to its stunning coastline, its peaceful valleys, and its challenging peaks. In recent years, however, Wales has really stepped onto the international stage, partly thanks to its focus on outdoor adventure tourism and the sheer natural beauty it offers.

What immediately strikes many visitors is the landscape. Wales is not a large country, but it packs an incredible punch in terms of geographical diversity. You have the dramatic, rugged mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) in the north, the sweeping coastlines of Pembrokeshire and the Gower Peninsula in the south, the gentler hills and valleys of the heartlands, and the industrial heritage areas that tell the story of its mining past. It’s a place where you can go from scaling a mountain to surfing a wave in the space of a couple of hours.

But Wales is far more than just pretty scenery and adrenaline activities. It has a rich and complex history. Perhaps most visibly, it’s a land of castles. Wales boasts more castles per square mile than any other country in Europe! These aren’t just ruins; many are remarkably well-preserved fortresses built by English kings to subdue the Welsh, standing today as imposing reminders of past conflicts and architectural prowess. They are central to the Welsh landscape and identity.   

Then there’s the Welsh language, Cymraeg. It’s one of the oldest living languages in Europe, a Celtic tongue related to Breton and Cornish. While English is spoken everywhere, you’ll see Welsh on road signs (often first!), hear it spoken in communities, and see it celebrated in cultural events. Hearing Welsh spoken is a tangible connection to the country’s ancient past and its ongoing cultural vitality. There’s a real pride in the language, and even learning a few basic phrases like ‘bore da’ (good morning) or ‘diolch’ (thank you) will be greatly appreciated.   

The culture is warm and welcoming. The Welsh are known for their friendliness (cyfeillgarwch), their love of singing (Wales is often called the “Land of Song”), and their passion for rugby. Visiting a local pub, especially on a match day, is an experience in itself.

Getting to Wales is straightforward. It’s easily accessible by road and rail from England, and Cardiff has an international airport. Once you’re there, exploring is relatively easy, though having a car gives you the most flexibility, especially in rural areas. Public transport is available, particularly connecting the main towns and cities, but services can be less frequent off the main routes.   

Accommodation options range from charming B&Bs and guesthouses, often in stunning locations, to hotels, self-catering cottages (perfect for exploring the countryside), and campsites. There’s something to suit most budgets and travel styles.   

So, that’s a little taste of what Wales is all about – a country with a big heart, a dramatic landscape, a rich history, and a thriving, distinct culture. It’s not just a corner of the UK; it’s a destination in its own right, with its own unique flavour and appeal. Let’s delve deeper into the fantastic things you can see and do here.

What Wales Offers: Castles, Coasts, and Celtic Charm

Right then, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. You’re thinking of visiting Wales – what exactly is on the menu? Prepare yourself, because it’s a feast for the senses!

First up, let’s tackle the most iconic symbols you’ll likely encounter: the Castles. Honestly, you can barely drive for twenty minutes in some parts of Wales without seeing a castle or the remains of one! As mentioned, Wales has over 600 castles, more per square mile than anywhere else in Europe. They tell a compelling story of conquest, resistance, and strategic importance.

King Edward I of England built a series of imposing fortresses in North Wales in the late 13th century to consolidate his power, and these are among the most impressive. Conwy, Caernarfon, Harlech, and Beaumaris are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and incredible examples of medieval military architecture. Walking along the walls of Caernarfon, where the Investiture of the Prince of Wales still takes place, feels like stepping back in time. Conwy’s walls encircle the entire town, which is pretty spectacular.   

But it’s not just Edwardian castles. There are earlier Norman motte-and-bailey castles, and also the castles built by the Welsh princes themselves, like Dinefwr or Castell y Bere, which have a different, often more organic, feel. Further south, Cardiff Castle, sitting right in the heart of the capital, is a fascinating mix of Norman keep, medieval walls, and an extravagantly Victorianised mansion. Exploring these castles is a highlight for many visitors, offering dramatic photo opportunities and a tangible connection to the past.  

Next, the absolute star of the show for many: The Outdoors and Natural Beauty. Wales is a playground for anyone who loves mountains, coast, and everything in between.

Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park in North Wales is the jewel in the crown, home to Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), the highest peak in Wales. You can hike to the summit via various routes, take the scenic Snowdon Mountain Railway, or simply explore the stunning valleys, lakes, and smaller peaks. It’s a landscape that inspires awe and offers challenging adventures. But Snowdonia is not just about Snowdon; it has numerous other mountains, beautiful villages like Betws-y-Coed, and the famous Ogwen Valley.   

Down south, the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is a completely different, but equally spectacular, landscape. It boasts the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, a National Trail that stretches for 186 miles (299 km) along the clifftops, sandy beaches, and rocky coves of the entire coastline. You don’t have to walk the whole thing; you can tackle sections for stunning day hikes, enjoying incredible sea views, spotting wildlife like seals and seabirds, and discovering charming seaside towns and villages like Tenby, St Davids (the UK’s smallest city!), and Solva.   

The Gower Peninsula, near Swansea, was the UK’s first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and boasts world-class beaches like Rhossili Bay, consistently ranked among the best in the world. The Brecon Beacons National Park (soon to be renamed Bannau Brycheiniog) offers rolling hills, waterfalls (Waterfall Country is a must-visit!), and excellent walking opportunities, popular for stargazing due to its dark skies.   

Beyond the designated parks, Wales is crisscrossed with public footpaths and trails, making it a walker’s paradise. You can explore ancient forests, wander through peaceful valleys, or climb smaller hills for panoramic views.  

Related to the landscape is Adventure Tourism. Wales has really positioned itself as a hub for adrenaline junkies and outdoor enthusiasts. From coasteering (climbing, swimming, and jumping along the coast) which was pioneered in Pembrokeshire, to zip-lining at incredible speeds over former slate quarries (Zip World offers some truly epic experiences), to mountain biking trails and climbing routes, Wales offers serious thrills. There are opportunities for surfing, kayaking, paddleboarding, and sailing along the coast, and caving and gorge walking inland. If you’re looking for an active holiday, Wales delivers in spades.

Let’s move onto Cities and Towns. While not having cities on the scale of London, Wales has vibrant urban centres with their own character.

Cardiff, the capital, is a dynamic, modern city with a beautiful bay area (Cardiff Bay), a historic castle in the centre, excellent museums (the National Museum Cardiff has free entry to its main collections – another value win!), a thriving arts scene, and great shopping and restaurants. It’s a friendly, walkable city that’s easy to explore.   

Swansea, Wales’ second city, sits on the coast with the beautiful Mumbles nearby and easy access to the Gower. Newport and Wrexham are other significant urban areas.   

However, some of the real charm of Wales lies in its smaller towns and villages. Places like Tenby, with its colourful harbour and sandy beaches; St Davids, the smallest city in the UK centered around its magnificent cathedral; Abergavenny, a gateway to the Brecon Beacons; or literary hubs like Hay-on-Wye, famous for its bookshops. These smaller places often feel more authentically Welsh and offer a slower pace of life.   

Welsh Culture and Heritage is a vital part of the experience. We’ve mentioned the language and the singing, but there’s more.

Museums across Wales tell the story of its past, from the National Museum Cardiff to the fascinating National Waterfront Museum in Swansea or the Big Pit National Coal Museum in Blaenavon, a former working coal mine where you can go underground with a former miner (this is also a free attraction!). These museums offer insights into Wales’ industrial revolution, its maritime history, and its social history.  

Cultural events are important too. The Eisteddfod (pronounced roughly eye-STETH-vod) is a unique Welsh festival of literature, music, and performance, held annually. Attending one, even just for a day, is a deep dive into Welsh culture.  

Food and drink are also evolving. While traditional dishes like Welsh rarebit (posh cheese on toast!), cawl (a hearty soup or stew), and Glamorgan sausages (vegetarian sausages made with cheese and leeks) are staples, the Welsh food scene is increasingly focusing on local produce – Welsh lamb is world-renowned, seafood from the coast is excellent, and local cheeses and craft drinks are gaining popularity. Pub culture is strong here too, offering a chance to sample local ales and chat with locals.

Finally, let’s not forget the sheer Magic and Mythology. Wales is a land steeped in Arthurian legend and the Mabinogion, a collection of medieval Welsh tales. Visiting places like Dinas Emrys, supposedly where Merlin prophesied, or exploring landscapes linked to King Arthur adds another layer of enchantment to your trip.

So, that’s a snapshot of what Wales offers – a powerful combination of dramatic landscapes, ancient history, vibrant culture, and thrilling outdoor adventures. It’s a country that caters to a wide range of interests, from the hardcore hiker and history buff to the family looking for a seaside holiday or the culture vulture exploring cities and museums. But now, the big question: is it going to be kind to your wallet?

Bang for Your Buck? Assessing Value in Wales

Alright, let’s talk money. After hearing about all those castles, coastlines, and cultural gems, the inevitable question pops up: is visiting Wales value for money? As with England, the answer isn’t a simple yes or no, but overall, I would argue that Wales offers excellent value, especially compared to some of the more popular and expensive regions of the UK like London and the South East of England.

Let’s break it down.

Firstly, and perhaps most significantly, a huge amount of what makes Wales so special is its natural beauty and outdoor activities, and many of these are free or very low cost. Hiking in Snowdonia or the Brecon Beacons? Free (barring parking in some popular spots). Walking sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path? Free. Spending a day on a stunning beach like Rhossili? Free. Exploring charming villages? Free. Simply driving through incredible scenery? Free (just fuel costs!).

This is a major advantage. If your primary interest is experiencing breathtaking landscapes and engaging in outdoor pursuits, Wales offers unparalleled opportunities without requiring expensive entrance fees. You are paying for your travel, accommodation, and food, but the core ‘attractions’ are often the natural environment itself.

Secondly, let’s look at attractions. While castles and other historical sites do have entrance fees (managed by organisations like Cadw, Welsh Historic Monuments), these fees are generally quite reasonable compared to many major historical attractions elsewhere in the UK or Europe. Often, you can buy passes if you plan to visit multiple Cadw sites, offering further savings. As mentioned, many excellent museums, like the National Museum Cardiff and the Big Pit, offer free entry to their main collections, providing a fantastic cultural experience at no cost.   

Thirdly, accommodation in Wales is generally more affordable than in comparable popular tourist areas in England. While prices will be higher in peak season (summer holidays) and in very popular hotspots like certain villages in Snowdonia or coastal towns in Pembrokeshire, outside of these times and locations, you can find excellent value. B&Bs and guesthouses are prevalent and often offer competitive rates, including breakfast. Self-catering cottages can be very economical for families or groups and allow for cheaper food costs as you can cook. Campsites and caravan parks are also widely available and offer a budget-friendly way to stay close to nature.   

Fourthly, food and drink. Eating out can add up anywhere, but Wales offers good value options. Pub lunches are often hearty and reasonably priced. Cafes offer affordable light bites. Supermarkets are available for self-catering supplies. Look out for local produce and markets for potentially cheaper and fresher options. While fine dining is available, you can eat very well in Wales without spending a fortune, particularly if you embrace local pubs and cafes.   

Fifthly, transport. Getting to Wales from England is relatively easy by road or rail, and booking trains in advance can save money. Within Wales, having a car offers the most flexibility, and fuel costs are what they are everywhere. Public transport exists but can be less comprehensive in rural areas. However, for travelling between major towns and cities, buses and trains are an option, and exploring a specific region like the Pembrokeshire coast can be done using local buses or even walking parts of the coastal path. Compared to the often high cost of public transport in and around London, getting around Wales can feel more manageable, especially if you plan your routes.  

The ‘value for money’ in Wales also comes down to the quality of the experience relative to the cost. You are getting access to truly stunning, unspoiled natural landscapes, incredibly significant historical sites, and a vibrant, distinct culture. The experiences on offer – whether it’s hiking to a mountain summit, exploring an ancient castle, or trying a new adventure sport – feel authentic and rewarding.

Think about it this way: for the cost of a few days exploring major paid attractions in a large global city, you could potentially spend a week or more in Wales, hiking mountains, walking coastal paths, visiting multiple castles, and soaking up the culture, with many of the key experiences being free or low-cost. The overall cost of a trip focused on outdoor activities and historical exploration in Wales is likely to be significantly less than a trip focused on museums, galleries, and shows in London, for example.

Are there ways to spend a lot of money in Wales? Of course! You can stay in luxury hotels, eat at high-end restaurants, and pay for numerous guided tours and expensive activities. But for the average traveller looking for a rich and rewarding experience, Wales offers incredible value.

To make your money go further, consider visiting outside of the absolute peak summer season. The shoulder seasons (spring and autumn) often offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices for accommodation. Research free attractions in the areas you plan to visit. Look for B&Bs or self-catering options. Plan your transport in advance. Embrace the opportunities for free outdoor activities.   

Wales isn’t just a cheaper alternative to England; it’s a destination with its own unique appeal that stands on its own merits. The value it offers is in the accessibility of its stunning natural landscapes, the wealth of its history (especially the castles!), the warmth of its culture, and the sheer variety of experiences available, many of which don’t come with a hefty price tag.

You are paying for the chance to breathe clean mountain air, to stand on a cliff edge looking out at the wild Atlantic, to explore centuries-old fortresses, and to immerse yourself in a proud and distinctive culture. For many visitors, that experience is priceless, but the fact that you can often achieve it without breaking the bank makes Wales a truly excellent value destination.

Planning Your Adventure in the Land of Song

So, feeling tempted by the call of the dragon? If Wales is now firmly on your travel radar, here are a few final thoughts to help you start planning your adventure.

Consider what kind of trip you want. Are you focused on hiking and mountains? Do you dream of coastal walks and seaside towns? Are you a history buff wanting to explore every castle? Or do you want a mix of everything? Knowing your priorities will help you decide which region(s) of Wales to focus on, as trying to see everything in one trip is ambitious!

Think about getting around. A car offers the most flexibility, especially for exploring rural areas and national parks. However, if you plan to focus on cities or specific coastal sections well-served by public transport, you might manage without one.   

Pack appropriately. Layers are essential for the changeable Welsh weather! Waterproofs are a must, and sturdy walking shoes or boots are highly recommended if you plan on doing any hiking. Sunscreen is also necessary, even on cloudy days.

Embrace the Welsh language. You don’t need to be fluent, but learning a few words like ‘bore da’ (good morning), ‘prynhawn da’ (good afternoon), ‘diolch’ (thank you), and ‘diolch yn fawr’ (thank you very much) will be appreciated and can enhance your interactions with locals.

Don’t be afraid to talk to people. The Welsh are generally very friendly and happy to chat. Ask for recommendations for a pub, a walk, or a place to eat.

Most importantly, slow down and soak it in. Wales is a place that rewards leisurely exploration. Take time to enjoy the views, chat with people, listen to the rhythm of the language, and feel the weight of history around you.

Wales is more than just a place to visit; it’s an experience. It’s the feeling of standing on top of a mountain with the world spread out below you, the sound of waves crashing against the shore, the taste of a local ale in a cozy pub, the stories etched in the stones of ancient castles. It’s a country that gets under your skin and stays with you long after you’ve left.

And in terms of value? Absolutely. While no country is ‘cheap’ if you only seek luxury, Wales offers an incredible return on your investment if you embrace its natural beauty, its rich history, and its vibrant culture. The stunning landscapes and many world-class attractions are incredibly accessible, often at little or no cost. You can have an epic adventure, immerse yourself in a unique culture, and create unforgettable memories, all without needing to spend a king’s (or a prince’s!) ransom.

So, if you’re looking for a destination with dramatic beauty, deep history, thrilling adventures, and a warm welcome, and you want your travel budget to go a little further, cast your gaze towards the west. Wales is waiting, ready to share its magic with you. Go on, dive in – you won’t regret it. Cymru am byth! (Wales forever!)